Classroom

Program I: Jewelry Repair and Diamond Setting

This program will provide you with the confidence to tackle repair jobs encountered by jewelers daily. It is designed for the beginner but broad enough for the professional.

 

SolderingPrecious metal facts — You will learn the unique characteristic of  the precious metals, their alloys, and laws that govern them. A demonstration of gold identification testing will be included.

Jewelry Cleaning — A discussion that includes stone safety, oxide prevention, and a demonstration of various cleaning methods.

The torch system — We will explain the setup, operation, and safety issues of the torch system. You will practice lighting and adjusting your torch to achieve a reducing, neutral and oxidizing flame.

Hand tools — Before you prepare your project for soldering you will become familiar with the tools at your bench. Good habits are formed through guided practice while you saw, file, and shape your project.

Soldering — You will learn the theory of soldering, the types of solder and their melt points. After a demonstration you will  practice  your first soldering project.

Annealing — Learn how to change metal from hard to soft and back again to its original hardness.

Jewelry supplies — An explanation of the manufacturing processes, history, and pricing of various jewelry parts used by jewelers daily.

Ring assembly — Two types of rings will be formed into shanks by using flat wire. You will attach a peg head on to one and a recessed head into the other in preparation for stone setting.

Diamond setting — An informative discussion of gemstones pertinent to stone setting will be presented. You will then  receive one on one instructions to set your one carat stone.

Ring SizeRing sizing, stretching, and shank repair — The proper techniques for sizing, stretching and repair of sterling silver, white and yellow gold, and platinum are explained. You will learn tricks of the trade for sizing worn shanks, channel sets and finding invisible solder joints. Ample time will be provided to size your ring up and down, and half shank it.

Buffing and polishing — With guidance in the proper selection of compounds and correct techniques  of buffing, lapping, and polishing you will polish your rings to a superior luster.

Removing and tightening gemstones — Several methods of safely removing and tightening diamonds and other gemstones are presented. You will then practice the removal, resetting, and vectorial method of tightening your stone.

Prong repair — Building up and replacing prongs is a profitable and essential part of jewelry repair. You will practice all types of prong repair, from re-tipping to full prong replacement.

Pin point diamond setting — Setting a smaller stone provides a new challenge as you practice setting a five point stone in an illusion top using a beading tool.

Sweat soldering — Further practice with your torch includes a useful new technique called  sweat soldering.

Bezel setting and fabrication — By sawing, forming and sweat soldering you will create a bezel pendent from flat sheet. You will complete your piece by bezel setting an onyx cabochon.

Chain repair — Special soldering techniques are presented that allow the repaired chain to have maximum flexibility. You'll practice both the weaving and butt joining techniques used when repairing serpentine, herringbone,and hollow rope chain. Kink removal and special polishing instructions will also be included.

Changing wire gauge — Changing the shape and gauge of wire will be demonstrated using the rolling mill and draw plate. Creative uses of the mill will also be presented.

Popular textures — You will learn how each of the popular finishes are created. “Diamond Cuts”, florentine, satin, and stone finishes are just a few of what will be demonstrated.

JewelryHollow jewelry — Large bold pieces of  hollow jewelry can be both expensive and high maintenance. You'll learn the tricks of the trade used when restoring these more difficult repairs.

Rhodium and gold electroplating — A presentation of the plating process that includes equipment, chemicals, safety issues and trouble shooting. A demonstration will follow.